Guess who is the new foreign correspondent of the beautiful city of PARIS, on
the chic website/blog 'Ciao Bella Travel'?! ... Moi! Us! Petite Paris!
Check out our first blog post:
a 'First Timers Guide to Preparing for
Paris'
things to know, prepare and plan for Paris, practical advice
and other little helpful bits.
AND READ OUR Article below: 'PREPARING FOR PARIS"
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PREPARING for PARIS
A
Step-by-Step First Timers Guide to Preparing for Paris
‘WHEN
is the best time to go to Paris?’ The truth is ANY time is a good
time! Paris is beautiful in all seasons, under all weather conditions (yeven
rain and snow are romantic in Paris) at any holiday, high or low season! You
can have so much fun frolicking in the summer months to all the outdoor
terraces, festivals, parks, sitting Seine-side soaking the sun, but you can
also rug up in cosy winter gear and frequent the cafes for coffee avalanches, high
tea treats, roving from restaurant to restaurant, meandering museums, bustling bars,
lingering the libraries and more, in true romantic Parisian fashion. With that
in mind August is high tourist month and also holiday time for Parisian; locals
tend to flock to their holiday destinations in Provence and other fabulous
places, leaving the city predominantly tourist-filled. If you want to go in the
summer months and mix more with locals go in June, July or September.
HOW long should you stay? Long enough to be able to walk, not sprint to your must-see
attractions; long enough to be able to sleep well and even sleep-in a few
mornings and not get up at the crack of dawn to join any qeues; long enough to
meander around and discover new places and/or return to favourite places on
your last day and long enough to spend an adequate amount of time doing the
great Parisian sport – café sitting, watching, reading and/or writing…having
the time to slow down and absorb life. Overall, I recommend minimum 5 nights. Otherwise
you’re just not doing it right. i.e being Parisian or Travelling!
‘WHAT do I pack?’ Pack according
to the season but always with a few pieces for the opposite – Paris is moody
and can surprise you - a summer day can turn chilly if not cold and rainy. No
matter what ALWAYS take an umbrella, a shawl or simple cardigan and a stylish
tee or blouse, in case a winter day turns warm you don’t have to wear a
‘washing-machine stained accident’ usually worn for layering for warmth!
FLIGHTS BOOKED! What’s next?
Here is a step-by-step guide to plan, prepare and book for
an effortless Parisian arrival and experience.
ACCOMMODATION:
One of the most important elements of holiday planning is selecting the
right accommodation. Your accommodation will set the tone for your entire
experience, being your starting point, your waking place, your retreat,
afternoon siesta spot and your nightly cocoon. As a basis, it should be comfortable,
clean and practical and there should be no skimping on the basic essentials.
In Paris, generally hotels are on the better end of the 5-star-scale and
sufficiently meet these needs. From the generic to theatrical boutique styles, reflected
as budget to luxury, they certainly provide what we have all come to know as
‘hotel’, delivering the practicality and conveniences they promise and we
expected.
Self-contained apartments
are a great option if you want your own private place to yourself, to feel like
you are living alone in your own Parisian home and to have the practical
element of your own kitchen, laundry etc is certainly attractive. These types are
often purchased and renovated purely for travellers, used only for holiday
rentals.
Going one notch up in the scale of cultural immersion is selecting a
B&B style of accommodation that is homely, intimate and offers a true,
authentic experience of Parisian life and culture! It is much more inviting and
welcoming to stay somewhere that is someone’s real home and to have a native
Parisian welcome you like an old friend, rather than a paying customer. Paris is all about le apartment so a B&B
apartment is the perfect accommodation. Petite
Paris (www.petiteparis.com.au) has over 90
B&B apartments exclusively for Australian travellers – some are unhosted
and some are hosted B&Bs (i.e. sharing with a local Parisian single, couple
or family) where you will be offered not only a bed and delicious homemade
breakfasts but also benefit from the knowledge, advice and tips of a local
Parisian and forming real relationships i.e not just conversing with the
concierge, cab driver or ticket master.
FINDING HOME!
Which Neighbourhood is yours?
Paris is divided into 20 districts know as ‘Arrondissements’ and split
in two by the Seine River. Have a look at a map of Paris to see how the City is
divided up HERE.
Each district is like a little village within the city with its own
history, culture, attractions, atmosphere, and way of life. So it’s a good idea
to read about each arrondissement to decide which ‘feels like home’ to you!
Generally the left bank, in particular the Latin Quarter (5th Arrondissement)
is where the intellectuals and artists reside with a large student population
it has a very creative bohemian atmosphere, while the right bank is more up
market and the business centre so it has a more commercial element to it, with
the exception of the 17th, 18th, 19th and 20th
arrondissements which are typically old world Parisian and more residential
than the central touristic arrondissements.
A ‘Petite’ Guide:
1st
and 2nd Arrondissements - the most
central locations, buzzing with dizzying city action and sounds, home of many
famous attractions and the upscale shopping district starting at rue
Saint-Honore leading to the Champs Elysees. Many of Paris’ oldest cafes reside
here. A definite commercial feel here.
3rd
and 4th Arrondissement – is the
popular and sought ‘le Marais’. It’s a hot spot for creative’s, bobo’s
(Bohemian bourgeois Parisians) and the cool cats of Paris. It is known as the
best boutique shopping spot (the only shopping area open on Sundays), for its
quirky after-dark liveliness and countless bars and restaurants, cafes as well
as museums and being one of the oldest neighbourhoods of Paris littered with
the quintessentially narrow observe cobble streets, 16th century
mansions and more.
5th
and 6th Arrondissement - The (5th) Latin Quarter is
the literary centre of Paris with all the old cult cafes of the well known
writers of Paris, think arts, artistic types and has a bohemian ambience with
the large student population, find hole-in-the-wall rustic bars, cafes and local
music spots. The (6th) is the trendy, upscale and very cosmopolitan
St-Germain des Pres – another very popular and sought after neighbourhood,
Think grand boulevards, quintessential Parisian brassieres, well dressed
classically styled Parisians in crisp lines and predominantly black attire.
Shopping is divine and many of Paris’ best bars and restaurants live here too.
7th
Arrondissement – Home to the Eiffel Tower this is an upscale residential
neighbourhood, although it doesn’t feel like it when you are around the Eiffel
Tower amongst all the tourist masses and gypsies. This is a much quieter area
with its share of great cafes and restaurants though limited nightlife. Plenty
of museums and Paris attractions are found here.
8th,
9th and 10th Arrondissement –
surrounding the most central 1st to 7th arrondissements
these neighbourhoods are good practical options for reaching the centre while
still being easy to navigate quickly to all of Paris while being slightly less
expensive to stay, But the exciting Paris city life is still there and strong.
I would describe them as a mix of commercial upmarket and quiet residential
quirky vintage boho atmosphere and the 10th is the hug of Paris’
multicultural life.
11th, 12th,
13th, 14th, - 19th and 20th Arrondissement
- are
arrondissements classified as blue collar residential Paris though all Parisian
beautiful with their own village lives and atmospheres and own attractions to
see.
15th,
16th and 17th Arrondissement - are Paris
upmarket, upscale and wealthy residential neighbourhoods.
18th
Arrondissement - is my favourite neighbourhood in Paris and where I call home for 2
months every year. It’s the art and cultural, creative life of Paris. Many of
Paris’ French impressionists resided here and its easy to see why. Its an
artfully inspiring very old-world quaint and quintessential Parisian village
where life continues in the same way it did centuries ago. It’s the romantic
capital of Paris. Think cobblestoned hidden laneways, hole-in-the-wall cafes
and bars and it sits on the highest point of Paris with the hill of the Sacre
Coeur at the centre giving the best view over all of Paris. The area is home to
the last remaining vineyards and windmills in Paris and is also riddled with
multiple independent theatres as well as the most well know the Moulin rouge.
TRANSPORT
into & around PARIS
a. Getting to your accommodation
I recommend becoming a
little familiar with the Paris transport system before arriving to ensure a
smooth entry into Paris and to your accommodation. There’s nothing worse than
getting lost and trans-flustered before you’ve even ‘arrived’. The Metro system
is really easy to get the hang of too especially with prior studying.
In an easy nutshell: at
either airport, following the signs to the lower level RER train lines. The RER
trains are intercity trains that connect Paris Airports to Paris Centre. At the
platform buy a one-way ticket to Paris at any one of the ticket machines or
tellers for approx 13euro. There is only one train every 20 mins or so, on one
platform so you can’t miss it. Get off at either ‘Gare Du Nord’, ‘Chatalet’, or
‘Denfert Rochereau’ station – whichever is most practical to reach your
accommodation. From there switch to the underground Metro line that will take
you too your B&Bs closest metro station (there may be some line changes
involved).
TIP: You can use the
13euro RER ticket purchased at the Airport to switch to the Metro lines and
reach your B&B – no need to buy a Metro ticket.
A great website
resource is www.parisbytrain.com - it describes basically but thoroughly how to
reach the Paris centre via train from each of Paris’ airports, as well as how
to switch the underground suburban Metro train lines if you are arriving at one
of the international train stations. With maps,
schedules, cost details and guides, it’s fantastic! Even giving a 3D map of the
Airport, level by level with navigation and photo guides.
Taking a cab from the
Airport into central Paris will cost approx 40-50euro. Cabs are metered and
reliable and there is never a shortage. Tip: its advantageous to learn basic
French, many cab drivers do not speak English or choose not to. Being able to
direct them to your accommodation while of course adding the standard expected
‘Bonjour/Bonsoir’, ‘Sil Vous Plait’ and ‘Merci’ (hello, please and thank you)
will be greatly appreciated and respectfully understood. More about Language
barriers later…
b. Getting around Paris – to and from your accommodation
The Petite Paris
website has a webpage dedicated to the Metro trains, buses, shuttle services,
taxi’s and batobuses in Paris. HERE.
Take a bit of time to
look at a map of the metro system in Paris, firstly to recognize which station
is closest to your accommodation and which line number (and color coded) is
yours. It will also help you to see how you may need to navigate a few line
changes to reach various attractions and venues in Paris.
TIP: It is cheaper to
buy a booklet of 10 subway tickets (approximately 13.30 euros) rather than to
buy individual tickets (1.70 euro each). Or it may be worthwhile to get weekly,
monthly or 3-5 day passes. If you stay at least 4 nights in Paris and cannot
walk get a weekly ticket (15.40euro approx from Monday to Sunday). Be careful,
certain counter employees, certainly commissioned for each sale, will try to
dissuade you and try to sell a 5-day tourist card to you. They can tell you
that the orange card is only for Parisians or working people. This is
incorrect.
* You can pick up
pocket size metro maps at each Metro station to keep handy.
KEMPTRO - Download this
app for your iPhones. It’s the only Metro app giving the location of all
entrances and exits of all metro stations. Once in Paris you will understand
why this is so important to have handy.
Download it HERE.
LOST IN
FRANCELATION – About Language Barriers
Despite their
reputation, the French are actually friendly and helpful. The key is to
understand the simple cultural difference that can lead some to perceive the
French as rude. If you go to Paris without learning anything at all about
French customs and social behaviours then you will tend to behave in a way that
the French perceive as extremely rude and they will reflect that rudeness back,
while you have no idea where it’s coming from.
The biggest piece of
advice I can give is to try to speak French. Speaking English to a Frenchman
right off the batin the assumption that English is spoken by everyone is seen
as rude and inconsiderate (even if he speaks English). Always attempt to speak
at least a little token French. ‘Bonjour’, ‘Parlez-vous Angalis?’ simply means
‘hello, do you speak English?’ – this makes a huge difference. You will find
the French will suddenly speak fluent English if you show a token effort.
If you want to learn a
little more, I HIGHLY recommend the Michel Thomas audio set – guaranteed to
have you speaking basic French in just a few hours. Guaranteed! It’s an amazing
practical method to language learning. I still don’t know how it works, but it
works – something to do with sound waves and visualization. You can get it on
Amazon HERE.
All these tips PLUS MORE – Can be found on the Petite Paris
B&B Website in the dedicated Paris Guide section HERE
So now you
have got your flights, accommodation options, neighbourhood, transport and
language situation down…its time for the fun part of planning your daily
itineraries! A Petite Paris specialty…
SIGHTSEEING
The most typical attractions of Paris can be discovered on any Paris
website, blog or travel magazine, web search etc – the Louvre, Arc de Triomphe,
Eiffel tower, Luxembourg gardens etc. are all already well covered so I prefer
to offer guests ‘different’ ideas based on my discoveries over the years. There
is so much to see and do, things that don’t involve long lines and expensive
tickets and a whole lot of elbow, nudging and overcrowded frustration, there
are obscure beautiful spaces and places where the true Paris comes alive, where
real life occurs and new and different sights are begging to be seen and sounds
to be heard.
Here are just a few of our recent discoveries and favourite new places: best
of all they are FREE!
·
Promenade Plantee, An elevated park built on an abandoned
railroad stretching 4km from Bastille to the Bois de Vincennes. It’s a
beautiful landscape of trees, flowers and plants where you will see Paris at
the level of treetops, roof tops and church spires, follow ivy-covered arched
trellises, watch the changing panorama of architectural styles and admire
decorative mouldings and intricate balcony railings. Finishing at Jardin de
Reuilly with its terraces, gardens, and cosy alcoves and an outdoor café. It’s
one of the cities best kept secrets and a favourite Sunday stroll of mine.
Address: 290 Ave Daumesnil 75012 Paris (via
staircase entry cnr Rue Lyon)
Metro: Bastille
·
Marche des Enfants
Rouge, The ‘Market of the Red Children’ is the oldest undercover food market in
Paris built in 1615
and named
after a nearby 17th century orphanage. With a tiny iron-gate entry that’s easy to miss, this is a small
yet vibrant and authentic Parisian market loved by locals. Many of the stands
sell fresh prepared food you can eat in the cafes inside. I love the bouquets
of vibrant flowers, the wide selection of obscure wines, bounties of organic
pumpkins, tomatoes, cauliflower, and other richly colored fruits and
vegetables, fresh seafood, meat, cheeses and charcuterie. I recommend the
Creole cafe, the homemade hamburger stall (locals favourite) and the Turkish
delights.
Address: 39 Rue de Bretagne 75003
Metro: Filles- Calvaire or Temple
·
Music Recital at
La Saint Chappell, A highlight for any first timer or returning visitor to Paris is
assuredly a visit to one of the spectacular concert recitals at La Sainte
Chapelle for some therapeutic musical reflections amidst the rumblings of the
city. This gothic architectural
jewel is located on the Isl. de la Cite
and holds over 100 concerts March to December; featuring works of the classical
music repertoire. You cannot find anywhere the warm atmosphere in the St.
Chapelle Church. Concerts daily
start at 7pm and 8.30pm - I recommended arriving 45 minutes prior.
Address: 8 Blvd du Palais 75001 Paris
Metro: Chatalet
GET A REAL Paris
Guide:
Our Petite Paris City Guide eBOOK is a
beautiful directory the best-of-the-best Insider secret local haunts and popular
favourites –for ipads and iphones for $7.99 and also available in hard or soft
cover and as a PDF. The second edition released in just March 2013 after my
last 2 month visit to Paris where I spent every moment exploring and devouring
every corner of the city to create the best and most up-to-date insider guide. It’s
a great resource that may help plan your Paris trip and daily itineraries - a
directory of some of our favourite places in Paris - best boulangeries,
patisseries, cafes, coffee places, bistros, parks, museums, shopping, best breakfast
spots,best coffee, best chocolatiers, walking itineraries and more. It is our
own secret hidden insider tips from our Parisian hosts too. You can
preview the first 40 pages of the book before purchasing via our website (links
below)
ON A BUDGET –
Cheap Eats in Paris
·
Breizh Café: A Creperie café with crepe flavours to
serve a breakfast, lunch, dinner or dessert appetite. From 7.50euro from the
most simple to just over 10euro for the fancy varieties. The fillings are
limited but the ingredients are the highest quality and delicious. Located in
the central 3rd arrondissement so its easy to get to from most
sightseeing spots. If not, I suggest making the effort, crepes are a must-eat
in Paris and you can get much better or more valuable than Breizh. TRY: Galette
Buckwheat Noir. Closed Mon and Tues.
109 rue Vieuille
du Temple 75003 Paris
Metro: Saint
Sebastian-Froissart
·
La Gabin; I recently discovered this small,
family-run, romantic restaurant in an unassuming street at the back of the
Sacre Coeur Basilica in Montmartre. Any weary visitor who has just braved the
bustle at the Basilica and prefers to shy away from the chaos of the ‘Place du Tertre’ for dinner, will
breath a sigh of warm relief at this intimate, non touristy, welcoming haven.
Classic French fare is on the menu and it’s delicious and inexpensive. The
fixed price menu for 20euro will have you feasting on a lovingly prepared
appetizer, main course and wine or dessert.
25 Rue Lambert
75018 Paris
Metro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt
or Chateau Rouge
·
Le Comptoir du Relais st Germain
Aside from being my absolute favourite
Paris restaurant and usually notoriously pricey, the BEST croque-monsieu in
Paris is made here – and it’s the cheapest too! Go figure! Uniquely made with
smoked salmon and comte cheese with Caesar-like salad making the standard
ham/cheese version seem banal. Here you get to dine in style at one of the
see-and-be-seen places on one of the most bustling people watching corners of
Paris, eating the cheaply and heartily. Its perfect! 9
Carrefour de l’Odeon 75006. Metro: Odeon
·
Rose Bakery: A great
quick take away bakery. Buy the perfect Quiche – crispy flaky crusts with just
the right balance of egg and cream filling, using all organic ingredients, for 5euro to takeaway, and head to a
nearby park or square and enjoy Paris lunch under the sun. Their sweet tarts are great too – 4euro
take away.
46 rue
des Martyrs 75009 Paris
Metro:
Notre Dame de Lorette
Quirky &
Practical PARIS Tips:
· If you go to the Louvre: To avoid the queue, go down the stairs close to
the little Arc de Triomphe (when the pyramid is behind you).
· Free entrance to
museums: Parisian museums offer
free entry every first Sunday of each month (including the Louvre). The museums
run by the City of Paris are always free, except of temporary exhibitions.
· Versailles Castle:To go to Versailles Castle, the cheapest way is
to take the bus 171,
departure at Pont de Sevres subway (last station
on line 9).
·
Don’t rush…But do keep track of
your time and create a list of things you really want to experience. Even
if you have an extended remember as they say, time flies. Try and check one
thing off the list each day.
·
If you are standing on the
sidewalk at 40 Rue Reaumur don’t expect 41 Rue Reaumur to be right across the
street. It may be on the other side the street but it could very well be
way down the block if not, sometimes, on the next block down. Bizarre? Oui! But
true!
·
At restaurants if you want
something “To Go” it is best to ask for “Take Away”. They seem to
understand that English phrase much better.
·
The Paris water has very high
level of calcium and can dry the skin. Bring your favorite lotion from
home.
·
Weather can be
unpredictable. Pack a few things for cooler or hotter weather than you
expect.
·
Don’t try to enter a crowded
Metro subway car when the door is closing and warning sound and lights have
activated. Even if the car is not crowded, stay clear of the doors, be
aware that the automated door close very fast and tight. Getting something
caught in the door will most likely require the assistance of other riders to
free it.
·
When the car is crowded do not
sit in the fold down jump seats found near the doors of Metro subway cars.
I is impolite and propagates the “ugly tourist” image. Signs are posted
in the cars stating this rule.
·
Try and stay informed.
Especially if you know things are happening in Paris, for us it was strikes and
terrorist warnings. You can find the English International Herald Tribune
newspaper on many newsstands.
· The L'officiel des Spectables and/or the Pariscope
are both good sources to find all the timetables for the
museums, cinemas, church recitals, exhibitions, theatres, etc. Published each
Wednesday and sold in all the newspaper shops and kiosks for 0.40euros.
